By MARC WOLLIN
More than 20 years ago I had a project which took me to Norway. As is often the case, I didn’t get out much beyond the hotel at which we were staying and working. My sole chance at sightseeing was my morning run which took me down to the harbor in Oslo and back. I don’t remember much, but I do recall I came home with a few impressions. One, the country was beautiful. Two, the people were beautiful. Three, the outerwear that people were wearing was beautiful. And four, the breakfast buffets were immense. And beautiful.
So when the opportunity came to spend some true holiday time there we took it.
I’m not sure I can say that Norway is having a moment, but the more people we mentioned it to, the more we heard about others going as well. Some went as part of a Scandinavian tour, others started with the “Norway in a nutshell” itinerary and kept going.
As usual for us, when we tour we opt to base ourselves in one place and do limited traveling, the better to relax as opposed to being on the move every night. For sure we miss some sights and experiences. But the time we spent there confirmed why Norway is a great place to visit.
What follows are random impressions from time spent in the “land of the midnight sun.”
For starters, I didn’t misremember: the country is beautiful. The fjords are breathtaking, with soaring sides and water cascading down the cliffs. The small houses and villages you see as you travel up them by boat define picturesque. Our trip on the water from Bergen was a rainy one, but that just made it all the more dramatic, as the waterfalls were roaring down the steep slopes. And when the sun broke through, the scenery was breathtaking.
The capital city of Oslo is about the same physical size as Chicago but has a quarter of the population. As such every day feels sleepy; you rarely experience crowds or traffic jams. Add to that the fact that electric vehicles dominate, the trams are also electrified, and electric scooters are everywhere, and the city is incredibly quiet.
As one of the countries with the lowest crime rates in the world, security feels almost nonexistent. The Royal Palace grounds are open to all, with the only visible presence being the Royal Guard. In our time walking around the city at all hours, we heard just two sirens and never saw police on the street.
While Oslo is no longer listed as one of the most expensive cities in the world (that’s now a tie between Zurich and Singapore) restaurants of all types are notably high priced. That’s because as a social democracy (some call it cuddly capitalism) the standard is a “fair wage” for workers. Add in almost free health care, education and child care, and it’s reflected in the bill. But if you discount the fact that tipping is appreciated but not expected, and the quality of the ingredients is very fresh, it’s not overwhelming. Beyond that, public transportation and tickets to events and museums are on par with similar ones in other cities.
Speaking at least of Oslo, it’s a city that takes its aesthetic seriously. There are beautiful old buildings and striking modern ones. Even a pedestrian bridge across a railroad yard catches your attention. And then there’s Frogner Park with its over 200 Gustav Vigeland sculptures (the world’s largest sculpture park made by a single artist). Add to that a plethora of statues from the historical, including many women, to contemporary to whimsical, its many museums, and you have a visually vibrant and accessible urban space.
Multilingualism is the norm. As explained to me by a local, “We’re a small country. If you only speak Norwegian there is nobody to talk to.”
English is taught at a very young age, and it’s not uncommon for people to speak three, four, or more languages. And while it looks like you should be able to sound out Norwegian, the language is difficult to fake your way through.
Our Airbnb host’s name was Tore. I asked if it was pronounced “Tor or Tor-e.” He just laughed and said it was actually neither, and was almost unpronounceable for English-speakers. The closest I got was “Too-ra,” but without the subtle accent he used.
While not completely unique, this might be the first time we have gone to a foreign location and gotten no local currency. I keep a stash of Euros accumulated from traveling to that area, but Norway is not part of the EU and uses the krone. But every place we went, whether shopping, getting coffee or any attraction took only cards and discouraged cash. Not sure if that has anything to do with the lower crime rate, but it’s one less thing to steal.
The weather is extremely variable, running from hot to cold, wet to dry, and often changes quickly as storms blow in from the north and Norwegian seas. It doesn’t seem to surprise the locals, who are prepared for anything. As the saying goes, “Det finnes ikke dårlig vær, bare dårlig klær!” which translates to “there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing.”
To be sure, the country has its challenges as does any place. We sat with two Norwegian women while waiting for a concert, and they complained about the trains and other annoyances. But at least to the casual visitor, the sum of the people, the food, the scenery and more all add up to a great experience. Take my word for it, or as the locals say, “Å ta det for god fisk,” literally, take it as good fish.
Marc Wollin of Bedford loves to travel to new places. You can see some highlights from his Norway trip here. His column appears weekly via email and online glancingaskance.blogspot.com and marcwollin.substack.com, Facebook, LinkedIn and X.